Not that whites aren’t allowed, but the same logic applies. Choose robust whites, which are better off poured at cellar temperatures (14-16 degrees Celsius) anyway ­- not too cold. This lets the flavours expand. It’s physics after all: remember from school what happens to metals when they’re cold or heated.

When it comes to the origin of these higher alcohol, winter-friendly wines, search for wines from warm regions. The Southern Hemisphere is a good starting point, but also the South West of France, southern Italy, warmer areas of the Iberian Peninsula, or wines from hot weather vintages. Italian Amarones are classic winter wines, as they’re made from partially dried, raisined grapes. This process increases sugar levels and therefore alcoholic content. But hot weather in general increases the ripeness of the grapes, resulting in more sugars. These sugars are what gets converted into alcohol through fermentation.

So, when the thermometer’s mercury stars dropping, think of serving wines with a fuller weight, with more alcohol and lots of flavour.

Calamus, the Quick Pick All-Star!

2007 Cabernet Franc, Calamus, Niagara Peninsula

Nose of black cherry, fresh herbs and spices. Medium to full bodied, ripe with integrated tannins and a blueberry finish. Approachable now, but will age 3 to 5 years.

4+ stars out of 5

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Calamus, Niagara Peninsula

Bouquet of currants, floral, menthol and five spice. Medium to full weight with blueberry, blackberry flavours and spice, oak notes on the finish. Will age short – term.

4 stars out of 5

2007 Red, Calamus, Niagara Peninsula

Cabernet Franc-driven meritage. Bright, fruity, floral aromas. Juicy with a light and pleasant tannic bite.

3+ stars out of 5

The Big Picks

2007 The Grange Brut, The Grange of Prince Edward, PEC

Traditional method sparkler made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, all estate fruit, so PEC’s first VQA bubbly, made by self-thought winemaker, Jeff Innes. Peach and peach pit, honey and yeast, mineral aromas. Med-weight with lemony, zesty flavours elevated by a med-intensity and persistent mousse; mineraly finish. I much enjoy it with roasted quail, raisin – Basmati rice and sautee salsify. Will be available for the holidays, so you won’t have to buy over-priced imports. 4 stars out of 5.

2007 Moira Chardonnay, Malivoire Wine Company, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula

A boisterous Chardonnay, result of the hot 2007 vintage. So rich, canned pineapple, orange toffee, lemon cream and vanilla aromas and flavours. It’s explosive over the palate, lush, full-weight and an overload of glycerol, hot too, it’s everything, and almost over-the-top which does not stop me from loving it. This wine is just “learning to talk” and I am wondering how it will age, although I don’t really care because I want to drink more and more of it right now. Here’s a fat, but well deserved score for this wine that reminds me of just a tiny bit over-weight, but really sophisticated and much desirable woman. Or a cuddly fat cat, “the cat on the bench”… 4 1/2 stars out of 5.

2007 Undurraga T.H. Syrah, Limari, Chile

T.H. stands for Terroir Hunter, the winery seeks out new, undiscovered areas such as the nowadays very much in vogue Limari Valley (400 KM North of Santiago with its rocky, minerally soils) that takes its name from the river which runs through it. Grapes come from a 2.8 HA parcel planted with vines between 12 to 20 years old. This wine smells like a fresh-baked blueberry pie, there’s also aroma accents of cassis, plums, cassia spice and musk on the nose. Medium plus bodied with lush and sweet fruit flavours, soft tannins and an intriguing juniper berry nuance on its finish. It has complexity, yet there’s certain elegance here. Will age well up to 5 years. 800 cases made. Under screwcap. I tried it with Black Walnut Lane Farm loin lamb chops with chocolate and mint dipping sauce and it was simply divine.

4+ stars out of 5

2008 Valpolicella Classico, La Salette, Veneto, Italy

Young and fresh with fleshy black cherry, blueberry, cacao and anise and other deep spice aroma notes on its nose. Light to medium bodied and fruity over the palate with light calibre tannins coming on its finish. Great with whole – roasted pheasant with dried cranberry – raisin – bread crumb stuffing and sautee root vegetables on the side.

3 1/2 stars out of 5

2005 Ninfa, Joao Teodosio Barbosa, Ribatejo, Portugal

Touriga Nacional & Syrah. This red is simple, yet pleasing. Plummy, chocolaty on the nose and palate, juicy and pretty modern- style with just a soft bite of tannins adding extra structure and short – term age-worthiness. A cozy pasta dish comes to my mind to go along this tinto, grilled gourmet sausages and peppers in a tangy tomato sauce.

3 1/2 stars out of 5

1999 Tinto, Luna Beberide, Bierzo, Spain

Made from a grape called Mencia. This red is still very much alive with black and blue fruit, deep spice, some earth and dried flowers – herbs aromas. Medium bodied and soft with savoury fruit flavours and a tiny bit of dusty tannins. Try it with grilled portobellos or semi-hard Iberian cheeses. 3 1/2 stars out of 5.

2008 Garnacha, The Potter, Tscharke, Barossa, Australia

Garnacha is the Spanish name for Grenache. Lots of sweet fruit aromas of raspberries, figs and underlying herbal and smokey nuances. Full and juicy with sweet tannins and a long, warm finish. Delicious, liquid MSG. I had it the other night with roasted ostrich. 4 stars out of 5.

2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Guarnellotto, Castello San Sano, Tuscany, Italy

A traditional-style and clkassic Tuscan red here made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Red and black cherries, cnnamon and nutmeg, tobacco and leather, some tar and sweet gamey aroma and flavour notes. Medium bodied and focused with its elements well balanced. Spicy, earthy finish. Esoteric to be sure of, not a sipping wine, but with food. Ready to drink now. I tried it with Indian spices rubbed rare-roasted venison loin. 4 stars out of 5.

2007 Late Harvest Riesling, Chateau des Charmes, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Gorgeous nose of tropical fruit, floral notes – lavender, fresh fennel and honey. Fresh over the palate with pear flavours and finish. There’s 10.5 grams/litre residual sugar in it, so just pleasantly sweet and not high in alcohol neither, 10.5%. Very good. Just perfect with holiday souffles, artisan cheeses or just on its on.

4 stars out of 5

Zoltan Szabo is a Toronto-based Sommelier, wine consultant and educator.

He has done more to raise the profile of the sommelier profession than busloads of stiff, tastevin-toting wine stewards, bringing a fresh, appealing, wholly inclusive approach to sharing his enthusiasm for wine.

Zoltan has been recognized repeatedly by his colleagues, has appeared in dozens of publications and interviews and has become the poster boy of the modern sommelier: fun, confident, highly knowledgeable and down to earth. Featured on Toronto’s Citytv with numerous occasions, Fairchild Television and The Food Network, he has also appeared in CBC’s highly successful documentary, “Wine Confidential” along with wine personality Robert M. Parker Jr., actor – winery proprietor Dan Aykroyd and others of same stature.

Professionally, Zoltan has created and oversees many award winning wine programs for some of the finest restaurants in Toronto and abroad, garnering him accolades from the local and international media.

Member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada, he contributes with articles and tasting notes to a variety of prominent publications and organizations. In 2008 Wine Business International Magazine has made a reference about Zoltan Szabo as being one of the most influential Sommelier and wine professional in Canada in “Who’s who in Canada” article. Today, Zoltan consults with restaurants, judges nationally and internationally and speaks at wine-soaked events. For more info, availability and full list of services offered please contact us directly. zoltan@zoltanszabo.org